The Harmony crochet cardigan is an easy crochet pattern for beginners. If you are looking for how to crochet a cardigan for this fall this pattern is great. This project is perfect for a beginner not only because it’s easy to crochet it but because after you see it finished you will have the feeling that your crochet skills are improving and you can do this! The pattern is easy to adjust for a crochet cardigan plus size too.
For this crochet cardigan pattern, you need to know how to crochet the houndstooth stitch, the half double crochet in the back loop stitch, and the double crochet cable. The crochet houndstooth stitch combines crocheting single and double crochet stitches. Each row of alternating single crochet stitch and double crochet stitch is balanced on the following row by working singles into the top of the doubles and doubles into the top of the singles. The half double crochet in back loop stitches is the easiest stitch you can use as ribbing and besides being very easy to crochet it looks beautiful and adds texture to the overall patterning. Because I wanted to add something special to my pattern, I crocheted the cables and added them on the sides. And I think this made the Harmony crochet cardigan look very stylish, unique, and elegant even if this simple crochet pattern uses basic stitches.
The Harmony crochet cardigan is a great layering piece for these chilly or cold days. What I love about this crochet cardigan is that you can wear it like a jacket with a t-shirt underneath or directly on your skin as a sweater, it looks great with trousers, jeans, skirts, in an office, or a casual look. You can even make this pattern as a crochet sweater!
Follow my Instagram page to see how I’m wearing my Harmony crochet cardigan.
For my Harmony crochet cardigan, I’ve used 550g Pure Cotton Fine yarn (11 x 50 g) ( 50 g= 170m/ 176oz= 185 yards) and a 3.5 mm crochet hook.
The Harmony crochet cardigan has two cables on the sides that are yarn eaters (for both cables I’ve used 50g of yarn) so when you order your yarn make sure to have 50 g extra. Crocheting sweaters and cardigans for myself (size S), I’ve realized I usually need 500 g of yarn when I’m using DK yarn, and when I started to crochet this one I was lucky I had extra because I used more than usual.
For my Harmony crochet cardigan top, I’ve used this yarn:
This is a very high-quality cotton yarn. Mercerizing makes cotton yarn shiny; it keeps its shape and doesn’t shrink in the wash. The yarn becomes extremely durable and more resistant to mold. The wonderful depth of color is also characteristic of mercerized cotton. Since the fibers can absorb more color, the result is a much more intense and lasting color.
The color chart includes plenty of gorgeous colors, you just have to decide what color you like and get started. You can buy this yarn HERE.
The final dimensions of the Harmony crochet cardigan: are 49 cm/19 inches in width and 53 cm/19 inches long.
Gauge: 21 stitches and 19 rows to 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 inches).
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ABBREVIATIONS:
ch= chain;
st= stitch;
sc= single crochet;
hdc= half double crochet;
dc= double crochet;
fpdc= front post double crochet;
bpdc= back post double crochet.
sl st= slip stitch;
The pattern uses US crochet terminology.
The instructions for the Harmony crochet cardigan:
First, we crochet the double crochet cable. You need to crochet two cables, my cables are 30 cm/11.8 inches long and 7.5 cm/3 inches wide.
So, when you calculate the dimensions of your cardigan don’t forget about the cables, they add an extra 7.5 cm/3 inches in width.
Please, watch the video tutorial and if it’s the first time you are crocheting cables you can start crocheting the cables while you are watching the tutorial:
Start with 19 chains.
1. Row 1: make a dc in the 3rd chain from the hook and continue crocheting double crochet in every chain until the end of the row.
2. Row 2: ch 2 (count as a double crochet stitch), bpdc in every stitch until the end of the row except the last stitch where you’ll crochet double crochet. You should have 18 stitches.
3. Row 3: ch 2 (count as a double crochet stitch), skip 4 stitches, and crochet fpdc in every next 4 stitches. Next crochet fpdc in every skipped stitch in the behind of the stitches you’ve just crocheted. Next, skip 4 stitches and crochet fpdc in every next 4 stitches, and continue to crochet fpdc in every skipped stitch in front of the stitches you just crocheted. Make a double crochet stitch in the last stitch of the row.
4. Row 4: ch 2 (count as a double crochet stitch), bpdc in every next stitch until the end of the row. You need to be careful how you crochet these stitches: crochet the first four bpdc in the last 4 fpdc you’ve crocheted in the previous row; the next 8 bpdc are crocheted in the stitches facing you and the last four bpdc are crocheted in the first fpdc you’ve crocheted in the previous row. Double crochet in the last stitch to finish the row.
5. Row 5: ch 2 (count as a double crochet stitch), fpdc in every stitch until the end of the row except the last stitch where you’ll crochet double crochet. You should have 18 stitches.
6. Row 6: ch 2 (count as a double crochet stitch), bpdc in every stitch until the end of the row except the last stitch where you’ll crochet double crochet. You should have 18 stitches.
Repeat the pattern from row 3. After you finish the last row you’ll need to crochet a round of single crochet. You can skip this step. But it’s better to do it because the edges of the cables will look better and it will be easier to sew them together with the back and front panels. Please watch the video tutorial and try to crochet the cables while you are watching. In the video tutorial, you’ll see how you need to make the single crochet edge too. If it’s the first time you are making them it might seem difficult. But by practicing and being careful where every stitch goes you will see that is not that hard to crochet cables.
The back panel of the Harmony crochet cardigan:
The chart for the Houndstooth stitch:
The video tutorial for the Houndstooth stitch:
The written instructions for the back panel:
Start with 80 chains:
Row 1: In the 2nd chain from the hook crochet a double crochet stitch then make a single crochet stitch in the next chain, *double crochet stitch in the next chain, single crochet stitch in the next chain*, repeat *-* until the end of the row;
Row 2: Chain 1, double crochet stitch in the single crochet stitch of the previous row, single crochet stitch in the double crochet stitch of the previous row, *double crochet stitch in next single crochet stitch of the previous row, single crochet stitch in next double crochet stitch of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row.
Make sure to crochet every single crochet stitch in the double crochet of the previous row and the double crochet stitch in the single crochet of the previous row.
Repeat row 2 until you have 72 rows.
The neckline and the shoulders:
The chart (click on the photo for a better resolution):
The written instructions:
73. Row 73: Chain 1, double crochet in the single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the double crochet of the previous row, *double crochet in the next single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the next double crochet of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until you have 28 stitches and turn.
74. Row 74: Chain 1, double crochet in the single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the double crochet of the previous row, *double crochet in the next single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the next double crochet of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row (you should have 28 stitches) and turn for the next row.
75. Row 75: Chain 1, double crochet in the single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the double crochet of the previous row, *double crochet in the next single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the next double crochet of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until you have 24 stitches and turn.
76. Row 76: Chain 1, double crochet in the single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the double crochet of the previous row, *double crochet in the next single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the next double crochet of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row (you should have 24 stitches) and turn for the next row.
77. Row 77: Chain 1, double crochet in the single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the double crochet of the previous row, *double crochet in the next single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the next double crochet of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until you have 22 stitches and turn.
-78. Row 78: Chain 1, double crochet in the single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the double crochet of the previous row, *double crochet in the next single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the next double crochet of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row (you should have 22 stitches) and turn for the next row.
79-80. Row 79-80: repeat row 6.
Don’t cut the yarn and on the right side of the panel crochet a round of single crochet, slip stitch to close the round. Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.
Crochet the second shoulder exactly like the first one. But starting the first row from the inside of the neckline (see de chart above).
The front panel of the Harmony crochet cardigan:
The chart:
The written instructions:
You need to make two identical panels.
Start with 45 chains:
Row 1: In the 2nd chain from the hook crochet a double crochet stitch then make a single crochet stitch in the next chain, *double crochet stitch in the next chain, single crochet stitch in the next chain*, repeat *-* until the end of the row (you should have 44 stitches);
Row 2: Chain 1, double crochet stitch in the single crochet stitch of the previous row, single crochet stitch in the double crochet stitch of the previous row, *double crochet stitch in next single crochet stitch of the previous row, single crochet stitch in next double crochet stitch of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row.
Make sure to crochet every single crochet stitch in the double crochet of the previous row and the double crochet stitch in the single crochet of the previous row.
Repeat row 2 until you have 50 rows.
51. Row 51: Chain 1, double crochet in the single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the double crochet of the previous row, *double crochet in the next single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the next double crochet of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until you have 42 stitches (you won’t crochet the last 2 stitches).
52. Row 52: Chain 1, double crochet in the single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the double crochet of the previous row, *double crochet in the next single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the next double crochet of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row.
53. Row 53: Chain 1, double crochet in the single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the double crochet of the previous row, *double crochet in the next single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the next double crochet of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until you have 40 stitches (you won’t crochet the last 2 stitches).
54. Row 54: Chain 1, double crochet in the single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the double crochet of the previous row, *double crochet in the next single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the next double crochet of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row.
55. Row 55: Chain 1, double crochet in the single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the double crochet of the previous row, *double crochet in the next single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the next double crochet of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until you have 38 stitches (you won’t crochet the last 2 stitches).
56. Row 56: Chain 1, double crochet in the single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the double crochet of the previous row, *double crochet in the next single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the next double crochet of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row.
57. Row 57: Chain 1, double crochet in the single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the double crochet of the previous row, *double crochet in the next single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the next double crochet of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until you have 36 stitches (you won’t crochet the last 2 stitches).
58. Row 58: Chain 1, double crochet in the single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the double crochet of the previous row, *double crochet in the next single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the next double crochet of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row.
59. Row 59: Chain 1, double crochet in the single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the double crochet of the previous row, *double crochet in the next single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the next double crochet of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until you have 34 stitches (you won’t crochet the last 2 stitches).
60. Row 60: Chain 1, double crochet in the single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the double crochet of the previous row, *double crochet in the next single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the next double crochet of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row.
61. Row 61: Chain 1, double crochet in the single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the double crochet of the previous row, *double crochet in the next single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the next double crochet of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until you have 32 stitches (you won’t crochet the last 2 stitches).
62. Row 62: Chain 1, double crochet in the single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the double crochet of the previous row, *double crochet in the next single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the next double crochet of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row.
63. Row 63: Chain 1, double crochet in the single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the double crochet of the previous row, *double crochet in the next single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the next double crochet of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until you have 30 stitches (you won’t crochet the last 2 stitches).
64. Row 64: Chain 1, double crochet in the single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the double crochet of the previous row, *double crochet in the next single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the next double crochet of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row.
65. Row 65: Chain 1, double crochet in the single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the double crochet of the previous row, *double crochet in the next single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the next double crochet of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until you have 28 stitches (you won’t crochet the last 2 stitches).
66. Row 66: Chain 1, double crochet in the single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the double crochet of the previous row, *double crochet in the next single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the next double crochet of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row.
67. Row 67: Chain 1, double crochet in the single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the double crochet of the previous row, *double crochet in the next single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the next double crochet of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until you have 26 stitches (you won’t crochet the last 2 stitches).
68. Row 68: Chain 1, double crochet in the single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the double crochet of the previous row, *double crochet in the next single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the next double crochet of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row.
69. Row 69: Chain 1, double crochet in the single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the double crochet of the previous row, *double crochet in the next single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the next double crochet of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until you have 24 stitches (you won’t crochet the last 2 stitches).
70. Row 70: Chain 1, double crochet in the single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the double crochet of the previous row, *double crochet in the next single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the next double crochet of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row.
71. Row 71: Chain 1, double crochet in the single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the double crochet of the previous row, *double crochet in the next single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the next double crochet of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until you have 22 stitches (you won’t crochet the last 2 stitches).
71. Row 72: Chain 1, double crochet in the single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the double crochet of the previous row, *double crochet in the next single crochet of the previous row, single crochet in the next double crochet of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row.
73-80. Row 73-80: repeat row 72.
Don’t cut the yarn and on the right side of the panel crochet a round of single crochet, slip stitch to close the round. Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.
Now, let’s join together the cardigan:
Sew together the cables on the back panel sides, the cables go underarms. Then sew together the front panels on the other side of the cables. Sew together the shoulders too.
The sleeves:
Make two sleeves repeating the same pattern.
The chart:
After you’ve sewed together the panels with the double crochet cables you can start to crochet the sleeves directly on the cardigan.
I’ve started to crochet the sleeve from the middle of the cable (in the 8th stitch of the cable). For my sleeve, I have 62 stitches.
1. Round 1: Chain 1 (don’t count as a stitch), *double crochet in stitch of the previous row, single crochet in the stitch of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until the end of the round. Slip stitch in the first stitch of the round, turn.
2. Round 2: Chain 1 (don’t count as a stitch), *sc in the dc of the previous round, dc in the sc of the previous round*. Repeat *-* until the end of the round. Slip stitch in the first stitch of the round, turn.
Repeat round 2 until you have 47 rounds.
48. Round 48: Chain 1 (don’t count as a stitch), start the round crocheting the first next 3 stitches together (1dc, 1sc, 1dc tog), make a single crochet in the next stitch; *dc in the sc of the previous round, sc in the dc of the previous round*. Repeat *-* until the end of the round. Slip stitch in the first stitch of the round, turn. You should have 60 stitches.
49. Round 49: Chain 1 (don’t count as a stitch), *sc in the dc of the previous round, dc in the sc of the previous round*. Repeat *-* until the end of the round. Slip stitch in the first stitch of the round, turn. You should have 60 stitches.
50. Round 50: Chain 1 (don’t count as a stitch), dc in the sc of the previous round; *sc in the dc of the previous round, dc in the sc of the previous round*. Repeat *-* until you get to the last 3 stitches, and crochet these last 3 stitches together (1 sc, 1 dc, 1 sc tog). Slip stitch in the first stitch of the round, turn. You should have 58 stitches.
51. Round 51: Chain 1 (don’t count as a stitch), *sc in the dc of the previous round, dc in the sc of the previous round*. Repeat *-* until the end of the round. Slip stitch in the first stitch of the round, turn. You should have 58 stitches.
52. Round 52: Chain 1 (don’t count as a stitch), start the round crocheting the first next 3 stitches together (1dc, 1sc, 1dc tog), make a single crochet in the next stitch; *dc in the sc of the previous round, sc in the dc of the previous round*. Repeat *-* until the end of the round. Slip stitch in the first stitch of the round, turn. You should have 56 stitches.
53. Round 53: Chain 1 (don’t count as a stitch), *sc in the dc of the previous round, dc in the sc of the previous round*. Repeat *-* until the end of the round. Slip stitch in the first stitch of the round, turn. You should have 56 stitches.
54. Round 54: Chain 1 (don’t count as a stitch), dc in the sc of the previous round; *sc in the dc of the previous round, dc in the sc of the previous round*. Repeat *-* until you get to the last 3 stitches, and crochet these last 3 stitches together (1 sc, 1 dc, 1 sc tog). Slip stitch in the first stitch of the round, turn. You should have 54 stitches.
55. Round 55: Chain 1 (don’t count as a stitch), *sc in the dc of the previous round, dc in the sc of the previous round*. Repeat *-* until the end of the round. Slip stitch in the first stitch of the round, turn. You should have 54 stitches.
56. Round 56: Chain 1 (don’t count as a stitch), *dc in the sc of the previous round, sc in the dc of the previous round*. Repeat *-* until the end of the round. Slip stitch in the first stitch of the round, turn. You should have 54 stitches.
57. Round 57: Chain 1 (don’t count as a stitch), *sc in the dc of the previous round, dc in the sc of the previous round*. Repeat *-* until the end of the round. Slip stitch in the first stitch of the round, turn. You should have 54 stitches.
After you finish the last round of the sleeve, don’t cut the yarn and start to crochet the sleeve cuff directly on the sleeve. Crochet 13 chains.
Row 1: hdc in 2nd chain from the hook, continue to crochet hdc in every next chain until the end of the row. You should have 12 stitches.
Row 2: ch 1 (don’t count as a stitch), hdc in the back loop of every next stitch until the end of the row. You should have 12 stitches.
Repeat row 2 around the sleeve until you get to the first row and sew together the edges.
The ribbing for the Harmony crochet cardigan:
The ribbing for the bottom of the Harmony cardigan:
Crochet 13 chains.
Row 1: hdc in 2nd chain from the hook, continue to crochet hdc in every next chain until the end of the row. You should have 12 stitches.
Row 2: ch 1 (don’t count as a stitch), hdc in the back loop of every next stitch until the end of the row. You should have 12 stitches.
Repeat row 2 around the bottom of the cardigan until you get to the second edge.
The ribbing for the collar:
Start from the bottom of the cardigan and crochet the ribbing directly on the cardigan all around the edge.
Make 8 chains.
Row 1: hdc in 2nd chain from the hook, continue to crochet hdc in every next chain until the end of the row. You should have 7 stitches.
Row 2: ch 1 (don’t count as a stitch), hdc in the back loop of every next stitch until the end of the row. You should have 7 stitches.
Repeat row 2 until you get to the second edge. Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.
The buttonholes:
Crochet the row with the buttonhole in this way: ch 1 (don’t count as a stitch), hdc in the back loop of every next 2 stitches, ch2, skip 3 stitches, and crochet hdc in the back loop in every next 2 stitches.
Crochet the next row in this way: hdc in the back loop of every next 2 stitches, 3 hdc in the ch space, hdc in the back loop of every next 2 stitches.
I’ve made the buttonholes on row 4, row 22, and row 38.
Here are some great tops for you:
At the end of the article, you’ll find a picture of the Harmony crochet cardigan, the long version. The pattern will be live on the blog at the end of the month.
I hope you enjoyed the Harmony crochet cardigan. Also, I can’t wait to see your photos with the Harmony crochet cardigan. Also, feel free to tag me when you share your project on Instagram or Facebook, or you can use the hashtag #turquoisewithvanilla.
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Copyright 2021 Turquoise with vanilla. All rights reserved. This pattern and photographs of items on this site are the property of Julia Bleau @Turquoisewithvanilla. Also, please DO NOT sell the pattern and claim this pattern as your own. The pattern is for personal use only and may not be translated or reproduced in another language. So please respect my rights, DO NOT share or publish this pattern anywhere without my permission. You can sell the items made with this pattern but please credit Turquoise with vanilla as the designer.
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Do you have this pattern in a size large? It is a beautiful sweater.
My cardigan is size M, but it can be easily made in size L using the gauge you’ll find in the pattern. I always use the chest circumference to make the width for my sweaters. If you are using another yarn and have the gauge for your yarn I can help you.