cotton crochet sweater
If you are looking at how to crochet a sweater for beginners this Cotton crochet sweater is the perfect free pattern for you. This crochet sweater pattern is very easy to crochet, and a fun project to make. The sweater has minimum shaping, you only have to crochet squares and join them together.  I think you can wear the Cotton crochet sweater with just about everything. I love the textured lace of the sweater, it looks very chic and elegant.

The Cotton crochet sweater is the long sleeve version of the Cotton crochet top, check out this pattern too, to see how beautiful looks with short sleeves.

At the end of the pattern, you will find the written instruction and the video tutorial for the half double crochet in the back loop stitch. I think this stitch is perfect for the ribbing used on the bottom of the sweater and on the sleeves too.

For my Cotton crochet sweater, I’ve used 500 g (10 x 50 g) 60% cotton, 40% acrylic yarn, and a 3,5 mm crochet hook.

Soft, wonderful cotton yarn combined with acrylic results in a lightweight yarn.

The cotton adds breathability and comfort while the acrylic makes the yarn lighter and helps keep its shape. A perfect combination where both acrylic and cotton get to show their best qualities.  It feels light and is soft and comfortable against the skin. Furthermore, it is ideal for kids’ clothing since it is easy to wash and stays neat.

The cotton content makes for slightly firmer fibers making it easy to work with for both knitting and crocheting. It’s easy to get the stitches nice and even. And is suitable for everything from sweaters and dolls to pillows, baskets, and bags.

It’s a good choice if you want to use yarn without animal fibers – or you experience discomfort with wool. Here you can buy this yarn: http://bit.ly/3cLE0on

 

The final dimensions of the Cotton crochet top are 45 cm/17.7 inches in width (90 cm/35.5 inches in bust circumference) and 60 cm/23.6 inches long.

A kind of gauge, because this pattern needs a multiple of 10 chains plus 2, I’ll give you the gauge for 10 chains, I think is much easier to adjust the size this way: 10 chains= 4.5 cm (1.8 inches).

For this project I’ve used this yarn:
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Pattern Instructions for Cotton crochet sweater:

ABBREVIATIONS:   

ch= chain;

st= stitch;

sc= single crochet;

hdc= half double crochet;

dc= double crochet;

3 dc cluster= 3 double crochet cluster;

The pattern uses US crochet terminology.

cotton sweater

The chart for the stitch:

textured lace

 

The written instruction for Cotton crochet sweater:

The front and back panel are crocheted the same.

Starting with multiple of 10 chains plus 2, for my sweater, I’ve started with 102 chains.
1. Row 1: sc 1 in the second chain from the hook and continue crocheting sc in every chain until the end of the row.
2. Row 2: ch 3 (first 2 ch count as a dc), 3 dc cluster in first st, skip 2 sts, dc in every next 5 sts of the previous row, *ch 1, skip 2 sts, 3 dc cluster, ch 2, 3 dc cluster, ch 1, skip 2 sts, dc in every next 5 sts of the previous row*, repeat until you reach the last 3 sts and crochet: ch1, skip 2 sts and in the last sts crochet: 3 dc cluster, ch 1, dc.
3. Row 3: ch 2, in the ch space of the previous row crochet: 3 dc cluster, ch 1, 3 dc cluster; ch 1, skip 1 dc of the previous row and crochet dc in every next 3 dc (starting with the second dc of the previous row), *ch 1, skip 1 dc and in the 2 ch space crochet: 3 dc cluster, ch 1, 3 dc cluster, ch 1, 3 dc cluster; ch 1 and skip 1 dc of the previous row and crochet dc in every next 3 dc (starting with the second dc of the previous row)*. Repeat *-* until you reach the last ch space (made by the first ch 3 of the previous row) and in this space crochet: ch1, 3 dc cluster, ch 1, 3 dc cluster, dc.
4. Row 4: ch 2 (count as a dc), dc, ch 1, and in the first ch space crochet: 3 dc cluster, ch 1, 3 dc cluster, ch 1, skip 1 dc of the previous row and crochet dc in the second dc of the previous row. *Ch 1, skip 1 dc and the 1 ch space and in the next 1 ch space (between the first and the second 3 dc cluster) crochet: 3 dc cluster, ch 1, 3 dc cluster, ch 1, dc in the second 3 dc cluster, ch 1 and in next 1 ch space (between the second and the 3rd 3dc cluster) crochet: 3 dc cluster, ch 1, 3 dc cluster; ch 1, skip the next 1 ch space and the first dc and in the second dc on the previous row crochet a dc*. Repeat *-* until you reach the last ch space (between the last two 3 dc clusters) and crochet in this space: ch 1, 3 dc cluster, ch 1, 3 dc cluster, 2 dc.
5. Row 5: ch 2 (count as a dc), dc in the second dc of the previous row and a dc in the next 1 ch space; ch 1, and in the next 1 ch space (between the two 3 dc clusters) crochet: 3 dc cluster, ch 1, 3 dc cluster. *In the next 1 ch space between the two 3 dc clusters crochet: 3 dc cluster, ch 1, 3 dc cluster, ch 1, dc in the next 1 ch space, dc in the dc of the previous row, and dc in the next 1 ch space, ch 1 and between the two 3 dc cluster crochet: 3 dc cluster, ch 1, 3 dc cluster*. Repeat *-* until you reach the ch space between the last two 3 dc clusters and crochet in this space: 3 dc cluster, ch 1, 3 dc cluster, ch 1, dc in the next ch space, dc in every last 2 sts of the previous row.
6. Row 6: ch 2 (count as a dc), dc in the second dc of the previous row, a dc in the next dc of the previous row, and 1 dc in the 1 ch space, ch 1, and in the 1 ch space between the two 3 dc clusters crochet one 3 dc cluster. *Ch 2, 3 dc cluster in the next ch space between the two 3 dc clusters, ch 1, dc in the next 1 ch space, dc in every next 3 dc of the previous row and 1 dc in the next ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in the next ch space between the two 3 dc clusters*. Repeat *-* until you reach the ch space between the last two 3 dc clusters and crochet in this ch space: ch 2, 3 dc cluster, ch 1, and 4 dc ( one dc in next 1 ch space, and dc in every next 3 sts of the previous row).
7. Row 7: ch 2 (count as a dc), dc in the second dc of the previous row, and a dc in the 3rd dc of the previous row. *Ch 1 and in the ch 2 space of the previous row crochet: 3 dc cluster, ch 1, 3 dc cluster, ch 1, 3 dc cluster, ch 1, and in the next second dc of the previous row crochet a dc, dc in every next 2 dc of the previous row*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row.
8. Row 8: ch 2 (count as a dc), dc in the second dc of the previous row. * Ch 1, in the next 1 ch space between the first two 3 dc clusters crochet: 3 dc cluster, ch 1, 3 dc cluster, ch 1, dc in the second 3 dc cluster of the previous row, ch 1, and in the 1 ch space between the second and the 3rd 3 dc cluster crochet: 3 dc cluster, ch 1, 3 dc cluster, ch 1, and in the second dc on the previous row crochet a dc*. Repeat *-* until you reach the last 2 sts and crochet dc in every last 2 sts.
9. Row 9: ch 3, *In the 1 ch space between the 3 dc clusters crochet: 3 dc cluster, ch 1, 3 dc cluster; ch 1, dc in the next 1 ch space, dc in the dc of the previous row and dc in the next 1 ch space, ch 1 and in the 1 ch space between the next two 3 dc clusters crochet: 3 dc cluster, ch 1, 3 dc cluster*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row, dc in the last sts.
10. Row 10: ch 3 (first 2 ch count as a dc), in the 1 ch space between the 3 dc clusters crochet: 3 dc cluster, ch 1, dc in next 1 ch space, dc in every next 3 dc, dc in next ch space, ch 1, 3 dc cluster in the 1 ch space between the 3 dc clusters. * Ch 2, in next 1 ch space between the 3 dc clusters crochet: 3 dc cluster, ch 1, dc in next 1 ch space, dc in every next 3 dc, dc in next ch space, ch 1, 3 dc cluster in next 1 ch space between the 3 dc clusters*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row, finish with ch 1 and dc in the last sts.
Repeat the pattern from row 3 six more times. Because I wanted a wavy look for the neckline, at the last repetition of the pattern I stopped at row 9. If you want a straight line crochet the last row too.

Optional: Crochet single crochet stitches all around the front panel and then around the back panel, both on the right side (in corners crochet 2 sc in one stitch). I like to crochet this round of single crochet because the edges look better. In addition, it’s easier to join together the two panels. Plus the neckline looks better too, but you can skip this step if you like.

Sew together the front and back panel leaving enough space for the sleeves. Then sew together the shoulders leaving enough space for the head. For my cotton sweater, I’ve used a cross-stitch to join together the panels and the sleeves. But you can sew them together using the stitch you know how to sew.

cross stitch

The sleeves:

Make two sleeves repeating the same pattern.

Starting with multiple of 10 chains plus 2 (for my sleaves, I’ve started with 62 chains) continue to crochet the same pattern as the front and the back panel until you have the length you need. I’ve repeated the pattern 5 times plus 3 more rows (40 cm/15.7 inches). 
Don’t cut the yarn and on the right side of the sleeve crochet a round of single crochet (in corners crochet 2 sc in one stitch), slip stitch to close the round. Cut the yarn in a long tail and sew the long edges of the sleeve together. After that, at the end of the sleeve, on the right side crochet one round as follows: 3 sc tog in every next 3 stitches, sl. st to close the round. At the end of the round, you should have 21 stitches. This edge should be wide enough to pull your hand through. And start to crochet the sleeve cuff directly on the sleeve.
The cuff:

Crochet 16 chains.

Row 1: hdc in 2nd chain from the hook, continue to crochet hdc in every next chain until the end of the row. You should have 15 stitches.

Row 2: ch 1 (don’t count as a stitch), hdc in the back loop of every next stitch until the end of the row. You should have 15 stitches.

Repeat row 2 around the sleeve until you get to the first row and sew together the edges.

sleeve

The bottom for the Cotton crochet sweater:

Start with 21 chains.

Row 1: hdc in 2nd chain from the hook, continue to crochet hdc in every next chain until the end of the row. You should have 20 stitches.
Row 2: ch 1 (don’t count as a stitch), hdc in the back loop of every next stitch until the end of the row. You should have 20 stitches.
Repeat row 2 around the bottom of the sweater until you get to the first row and sew together the edges. Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.
How to crochet the half double crochet in back loop ribbing:

Start with any number of chains and crochet the half-double crochet starting with the second chain from the hook. For this sweater, I’ve started with 21 chains.

Start the next row with chain 1 (don’t count as stitch).
1. Yarn over the hook and insert the hook in the back loop of the stitch of the previous row.
2. Pull a loop through the back loop of the previous row.
Now you have 3 loops on the hook.
3. Yarn over again and pull the yarn through all three loops on the hook.
4. One loop remains on the hook, and you just made one half-double crochet stitch. Repeat steps 1 to 3 for the next stitches.
The empty front loop creates a ridge on the side of the work facing you.

Here is the video tutorial for the Half Double crochet in the back loop:

 

I hope you enjoyed this Cotton crochet Sweater and I can’t wait to see your photos with your crochet sweater. In particular, I’m very curious to see what color you’ll choose. In case you’ll share your Cotton crochet top on Instagram or Facebook feel free to tag me, or you can use the hashtag #turquoisewithvanilla. 

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Copyright 2021 Turquoise with vanilla. All right reserved. This pattern is the property of Julia Bleau @Turquoisewithvanilla. So Please DO NOT sell the pattern and claim this pattern as your own. The pattern is for personal use only and may not be translated or reproduced in another language. Please respect my rights so DO NOT share or publish this pattern anywhere without my permission. You can sell the items made with this pattern but please credit Turquoise with vanilla as the designer.

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