sweater weather

The Autumn leaves knitted sweater has minimum shaping and is a great sweater wheatear to start these fall days. But if you are looking at knitting lace sweaters for beginners, first you should learn how to knit the leaf-patterned lace knit stitch. For this knitted lace stitch, you need to know how to decrease and how to yarn over. So don’t give up if it doesn’t look good for the first time, or the second, we all have been there! Just take that needles and practice every day if you can and you’ll become so good that even you won’t believe it! You can do it and you can be good at it!

What I love about this knitted sweater pattern is that it looks great with short sleeves too and, I think it will be a great knit sweater dress. If you would like the Autumn leaves knitted sweater as a knit sweater turtleneck you just need to knit more rows for the collar.

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For my Autumn leaves knitted sweater, I’ve used 550 g of this mercerized Camilla Cotton, (50g= 125m/ 1.76oz= 136 yards), 4mm needles, and 2.5 mm needles for the ribbing.

cottonThis is a very high-quality cotton yarn. Mercerizing makes cotton yarn glossy and shiny, it keeps its shape and doesn’t shrink in the wash. The yarn becomes extremely durable and more resistant to mold. Textiles in cotton stay beautiful for many years and only get softer with use. This yarn also excels when it comes to its absorbing powers, but is quick-drying at the same time. The wonderful depth of color is also characteristic of mercerized cotton. Since the fibers can absorb more color, the result is a much more intense and lasting color.

The color chart includes plenty of gorgeous colors, you just have to decide what color you like and get started. Here you can buy this yarn: http://bit.ly/3UccRiO

 

Abbreviations:

K= knit;

P= purl;

ssk= slip, slip, knit; and means that you slip 1 st, slip the next, then put the left needle back into the slipped sts and knit them together.
This will create a decrease in leaning to the left.

k2tog= knit 2 together;

sk2po= slip 2 st, knit 2 sts together, pass slipped st over;

St= stitch;

RS= right side;

WS= wrong side.

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The gauge for the stitch for 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 inches) after washing and blocking: 22 stitches and 28 rows.

The final dimensions of the top: are 45 cm/ 17.7  inches in width (90 cm/ 35.4 inches circumference) and 54  cm/ 21 inches long.

knitted sweater

The instructions for the Autumn leaves knitted sweater:

Cast on a multiple of 10 stitches plus 1, for my sweater I’ve started with 111 stitches. For the ribbing you need an odd number of stitches. Start with the 2.5 mm needles.

The ribbing:

For my, Autumn leaves knitted sweater I’ve used the 1×1 rib, the most basic rib. This is a reversible pattern, and very easy to knit.

The chart:

rib

1.Row 1 (RS): k1, *p1, k1*; repeat *-* to end;
2. Row 2 (WS): p1, *k1, p1*; repeat *-* to end.
Repeat the ribbing from row 1 until you have 12 rows.

The back panel:

The chart for the stitch:

autumn knitted sweater

Change for the 4 mm needles and continue to crochet the back panel of the sweater:

13.Row 13 (RS): K1, *k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3* repeat *-*;
14. Row 14 and every WS row: Purl;
15. Row 15: K1; *k1, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, ssk, k2*, repeat*-*;
17. Row 17: K1, *k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k1*, repeat *-*;
19. Row 19: K2tog, *k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, sk2po*, repeat *-*, to end but instead of finishing with a sk2po, finish with ssk.
21. Row 21: K1, *yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k1*, repeat *-*
23. Row 23: K1, *yo, k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1, yo, k1*, repeat *-*;
25. Row 25: K1, *yo, k2, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2, yo, k1*, repeat *-*;
27. Row 27: K1, *yo, k3, sk2po, k3, yo, k1* repeat *-*;
28. Row 28: Purl.

Repeat the pattern from row 13 for 8 times.

The neckline and shoulders:

The chart (click on the chart for a better resolution) :

back panel

 

157. Row 157: (RS): K1, *k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3* repeat *-*;
158. Row 158 and every WS row: Purl;
159. Row 159: K1; *k1, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, ssk, k2*, repeat*-*;
161. Row 161: K1, *k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k1*, repeat *-*;
163. Row 163: K2tog, *k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, sk2po*, repeat *-* to end but instead of finishing with a sk2po, finish with ssk.
165. Row 165: K1, *yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k1*, repeat *-* 2 more times; yo, ssk, k8. Bind off 29 stitches. K8, k2tog, yo, k1; repeat *-* to end. You should have 41 stitches for every shoulder.
Starting with the next row we will knit every shoulder at a time.
First shoulder:
166. Row 166: purl all stitches;
167. Row 167: bind off 2 stitches; k5, k2 tog, k1, yo, k1;  *yo, k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1, yo, k1*, repeat *-* to end; You should have 39 stitches.
169. Row 169: ssk, k3, k2 tog, k2, yo, k1; *yo, k2, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2, yo, k1*, repeat *-* to end; You should have 38 stitches.
171. Row 171: ssk, k1, k2 tog, k3, yo, k1; *yo, k3, sk2po, k3, yo, k1* repeat *-*; to end. You should have 37 stitches.
172. Row 172: purl all stitches.

Bind off, secure the last stitch and weave in.

 

The second shoulder:
166. Row 166: bind off 2 stitches; purl all stitches. You should have 39 stitches.
167. Row 167: k1, *yo, k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1, yo, k1*, repeat *-* two more times, yo, k1, ssk, k5. You should have 39 stitches.
168. Row 168: p2tog; purl to end. You should have 38 stitches.
169. Row 169: k1, *yo, k2, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2, yo, k1*, repeat *-* two more times, yo, k2, ssk, k3. You should have 38 stitches.
170. Row 170: p2tog; purl to end. You should have 37 stitches.
171. Row 171: k1, *yo, k3, sk2po, k3, yo, k1* repeat *-* two more times, yo, k3, ssk, k1. You should have 37 stitches.
172. Row 172: purl all stitches.

Bind off, secure the last stitch and weave in.

The front panel:

Start with the 2.5 mm needle.

1.Row 1 (RS): k1, *p1, k1*; repeat *-* to end;
2. Row 2 (WS): p1, *k1, p1*; repeat *-* to end.
Repeat the ribbing from row 1 until you have 12 rows. Change for the 4 mm needles and continue to crochet the front panel of the sweater:
13. Row 13 (RS): K1, *k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3* repeat *-*;
14. Row 14 and every WS row: Purl;
15. Row 15: K1; *k1, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, ssk, k2*, repeat*-*;
17. Row 17: K1, *k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k1*, repeat *-*;
19. Row 19: K2tog, *k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, sk2po*, repeat *-* to end but instead of finishing with a sk2po, finish with ssk.
21. Row 21: K1, *yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k1*, repeat *-*
23. Row 23: K1, *yo, k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1, yo, k1*, repeat *-*;
25. Row 25: K1, *yo, k2, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2, yo, k1*, repeat *-*;
27. Row 27: K1, *yo, k3, sk2po, k3, yo, k1* repeat *-*;
28. Row 28: Purl.

Repeat the pattern from row 13 for 8 times.

The neckline and shoulders:

The chart (click on the chart for a better resolution) :

front panel

157. Row 157: (RS): K1, *k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3* repeat *-* two more times; k2, k2 tog, yo, k6. Bind off 29 stitches. K6, yo, ssk, k3; repeat *-* to end. You should have 41 stitches for every shoulder.
Starting with the next row we will knit every shoulder at a time.
First shoulder:
158. Row 158 (WS): purl all the stitches;
159. Row 159: bind off 2 stitches; k4, yo, k1, ssk, k2; *k1, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, ssk, k2*, repeat*-* to end. You should have 39 stitches.
161. Row 161: ssk, k3, yo, k2, ssk, k1; *k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k1*, repeat *-* to end. You should have 38 stitches.
163. Row 163: ssk, k2, yo, k3, sk2po; *k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, sk2po*, repeat *-* to end but instead of finishing with a sk2po, finish with ssk. You should have 37 stitches.
165. Row 165: k4, k2tog, yo, k1; *yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k1*, repeat *-* to end.
167. Row 167: k3, k2tog, k1, yo, k1; *yo, k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1, yo, k1*, repeat *-* to end.
169. Row 169: k2, k2tog, k2, yo, k1; *yo, k2, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2, yo, k1*, repeat *-* to end.
171. Row 171: k1, k2tog, k3, yo, k1; *yo, k3, sk2po, k3, yo, k1* repeat *-* to end.
172. Row 172: purl.

Bind off, secure the last stitch and weave in.

The second shoulder:
158. Row 158 (WS): bind off 2 stitches; purl all stitches. You should have 39 stitches.
159. Row 159: K1; *k1, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, ssk, k2*, repeat*-* two more times; k1, k2tog, k1, yo, k4.
160. Row 160: p2tog; purl to end. You should have 38 stitches.
161. Row 161: K1, *k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k1*, repeat *-* two more times; k2tog, k2, yo, k3.
162. Row 162: p2tog; purl to end. You should have 37 stitches.
163. Row 163: K2tog, *k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, sk2po*, repeat *-* two more times; k3, yo, k2.
165. Row 165: K1, *yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k1*, repeat *-* two more times; yo, ssk, k4.
167. Row 167: K1, *yo, k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1, yo, k1*, repeat *-* two more times; yo, k1, ssk, k3.
169. Row 169: K1, *yo, k2, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2, yo, k1*, repeat *-* two more times; yo, k2, ssk, k2.
171. Row 171: K1, *yo, k3, sk2po, k3, yo, k1* repeat *-* two more times; yo, k3, ssk, k1.
172. Row 172: purl.

Bind off, secure the last stitch and weave in.

Optional: Crochet single crochet stitches all around the front panel and then around the back panel. Crochet the stitches on the right side (in corners crochet 2 sc in one stitch). I like to crochet this round of single crochet because the edges look better. In addition, it’s easier to join together the two panels. Plus the neckline looks better too, and it will be easier to pick up the stitches for the collar. But you can skip this step if you like or if you don’t know how to crochet.

Sew together the front and back panels leaving enough space for the sleeves. Then sew together the shoulders leaving the space for the head.  Sew them together using the stitch you know how to sew.

autumn leaves sweater

The sleeves:

I’ve knitted the sleeves directly on the sweater. Both sleeves are knitted identically. Pick up the stitches for the sleeves, keep in mind that you need multiple of 10 stitches plus 1. I have 61 stitches for one sleeve.

1.Row 1 (RS): K1, *k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3* repeat *-*;
2. Row 2 and every WS row: Purl;
3. Row 3: K1; *k1, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, ssk, k2*, repeat*-*;
5. Row 5: K1, *k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k1*, repeat *-*;
7. Row 7: K2tog, *k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, sk2po*, repeat *-*, to end but instead of finishing with a sk2po, finish with ssk.
9. Row 9: K1, *yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k1*, repeat *-*
11. Row 11: K1, *yo, k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1, yo, k1*, repeat *-*;
13. Row 13: K1, *yo, k2, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2, yo, k1*, repeat *-*;
15. Row 15: K1, *yo, k3, sk2po, k3, yo, k1* repeat *-*;
16. Row 16: Purl.

Repeat the pattern from row 1 for 6 times more.

Change for the 2.5 mm needles and start to crochet the 1×1 ribbing for 30 rows. Bind off, cut the yarn and weave in.

Repeat the same pattern for the second sleeve.

If you want to knit the sleeves separately and sew them together with the body of the sweater cast on multiple of 10 plus 1 stitch (for my sweater I have 61 stitches) and knit the ribbing for 30 rows with the 2.5 mm needles. Then change for the 4 mm needles and knit the pattern for the stitch (rows 13 to 28 from the beginning of the written instructions for the sweater) until you have the length you need.

The neckband:

Pick up the stitches directly from the neckline of the sweater making sure you have an odd number of stitches. Start with the first row on the right side and knit the ribbing for 12 rows. Knit the neckband with the 2.5 mm needles. Cast off, sew together the edges and weave in the ends.

I recommend washing the Autumn leaves knitted sweater by hand or on the washing machine at a maximum of 30 Celsius degrees. I prefer 20 Celsius degrees for all my knitted items. Block the sweater using your favorite method.

I hope you enjoyed the Autumn leaves knitted sweater and I can’t wait to see your projects made with this knitted sweater. Also, feel free to tag me when you share your project on Instagram or Facebook, or you can use the hashtag #turquoisewithvanilla.

Here are some great sweater patterns:
Lily of the Valley knitted sweater;
Pray for peace crochet sweater;
Harmony crochet cardigan;
Harmony crochet long cardigan;
Cotton crochet sweater;
Cozy Days crochet Vest;

As you can see the Autumn leaves knitted sweater have my cat’s approval, so it’s definitely a must!

knitted sweater

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Copyright 2022 Turquoise with vanilla. All right reserved. This pattern and photographs of items on this site are property of Julia Bleau @Turquoisewithvanilla. Also, please DO NOT sell the pattern and claim this pattern as your own. The pattern is for personal use only and may not be translated or reproduced in another language. So please respect my rights, DO NOT share or publish this pattern anywhere without my permission. You can sell the items made with this pattern but please credit Turquoise with vanilla as the designer.