old shale knit stitch

 

 

The Old Shale knit stitch is a well-known and classic lace knitting pattern. Also known as the Feather and Fan knit stitch, it creates gentle waves with delicate eyelets that add movement and texture without being overly complicated. This easy lace knitting pattern looks intricate, but it’s actually very beginner-friendly. The Old Shale knit stitch pattern is a traditional lace design that creates soft horizontal waves using simple increases and decreases.

Many knitters use the names Old Shale and Feather and Fan interchangeably, but there are slight historical differences between the original stitch patterns. Today, most modern patterns use this elegant wave design in both ways. The stitch uses yarn overs, knit two together, and ssk decreases. If you already know how to knit, purl, yarn over, and work simple decreases, you already have all the skills necessary. This produces decorative eyelets and graceful ripples across the fabric. The Old Shale stitch is a good way to learn lace knitting because it follows a simple pattern. It has been popular for over a century because it is so versatile.

The Old Shale knit stitch is great for knitters of all levels. It creates an elegant fabric easily. The fabric has a beautiful drape and enough structure to be used in garments and accessories. Its soft waves add visual interest without requiring advanced lace techniques. It looks just as beautiful in solid colours, hand-dyed yarns, and fibers that vary in colour. The stitch naturally opens after blocking, so every finished project looks and feels airy and polished. This stitch is perfect for any project, from a simple scarf to a detailed heirloom blanket. It always looks sophisticated.

What Can You Make with the Old Shale Knit Stitch?

Shawls and Scarves: 

The Old Shale knit stitch is perfect for shawls and scarves because its wave pattern makes a soft, elegant drape. The eyelets make the fabric lightweight and breathable, and the textured design adds visual interest without making it bulky. This lace knitting stitch is beautiful and comfortable to wear in any season. It can be made with fine merino, alpaca, or cotton yarn. Classic lace knitting has a timeless charm.

The waves natural flow makes this stitch perfect for lightweight lace shawls that drape beautifully around the shoulders. Long scarves beautifully show off repeating waves, especially when they are made with yarns that are different shades or that have been dyed by hand.

Summer Tops:

The Old Shale knit stitch is perfect for summer tops because its airy lace pattern creates a lightweight, breathable fabric that feels comfortable in warm weather. The waves and eyelets make the fabric feel and look nicer, and they allow air to circulate, which makes the fabric feel cooler. This classic lace knitting stitch is great for making sleeveless tanks, short-sleeved tees, and lightweight short sleeves cardigans. It makes stylish pieces that look beautiful and will never go out of style.

Cardigans and Lightweight sweaters: 

The Old Shale knit stitch is perfect for making lightweight sweaters and short-sleeved cardigans because it makes a soft, breathable fabric that looks great. The delicate wave pattern adds texture and visual interest without making the garment feel heavy, making it ideal for layering during spring and cooler summer evenings. This classic lace knitting stitch is used to make comfortable, elegant pieces that you’ll enjoy wearing for years. It can be made from cotton, linen blends, or lightweight wool.

Baby Blankets:

The Old Shale knit stitch is a great choice for baby blankets because it makes a soft, lightweight fabric with gentle waves and a delicate texture. The lace pattern is pretty and breathable, so little ones will stay comfortable in any season. This classic Old Shale stitch pattern can be made with soft cotton or washable merino wool. It creates blankets that are cozy and perfect for gifting. Families will treasure these blankets for years.

Throws:

The Old Shale knit stitch is a lovely choice for throws because its graceful wave pattern creates a sophisticated texture that enhances any home décor style. The lace design looks elegant and moves smoothly, and it keeps the fabric soft and comfortable. When you use cozy yarns like wool, alpaca, or cotton blends, this lace knitting stitch makes beautiful blankets that are warm yet lightweight. These blankets are perfect for adding a handmade touch to living rooms and bedrooms.

Home decor:

The Old Shale knit stitch is a beautiful option for home décor projects because its elegant waves create a timeless, handmade look. The lace pattern adds texture and visual interest to pillows, blankets, table runners, and decorative pieces without making them look too busy. This classic lace knitting stitch is made from natural fibers like cotton, linen, or wool blends. It will make any space feel warm and charming. Its delicate design makes everyday home accessories feel special and well-made.

The best yarns for the Old Shale Knit Stitch:

The beauty of any lace knitting stitch depends a lot on the type of yarn used.

Cotton Yarn:

Cotton makes the stitches stand out, showing every eyelet and wave. It works especially well for dishcloths, table runners, and lightweight summer accessories because it holds the lace pattern beautifully.

Merino Wool:

Merino makes a soft, stretchy fabric that makes the waves look even better. It’s great for scarves, cowls, sweaters, and cozy shawls. It’s just as important to be comfortable as it is to look good.

Alpaca blends:

Alpaca makes the fabric feel soft and smooth. Blends with wool help keep stitches defined while keeping the fabric lightweight and warm.

Linen:

Linen is a breathable fabric that is perfect for summer clothes. After washing and wearing, the fibers soften a lot, but the lace stays crisp and elegant.

Bamboo and silk:

These fibers create a beautiful drape and subtle shine, making them perfect for elegant wraps and shawls where movement is the main feature.

Tips for Knitting the Old Shale stitch:

Even simple lace can benefit from a few helpful techniques:

  • Use stitch markers to separate pattern repeats. They make it much easier to spot mistakes early.
  • Count the stitches after every lace row to find mistakes early on.
  • Avoid pulling yarn overs too tightly, as they form the decorative eyelets.
  • When you’re first learning, use smooth, light-coloured yarn so that the stitch pattern is easier to read.
  • Block Your Finished Piece: Blocking transforms the fabric completely. The lace opens beautifully, making every leaf motif clear and well-defined. You’ll be surprised at how much the stitch improves after washing and blocking.

Why Blocking Makes Such a Difference:

Blocking is essential for almost every knitted lace pattern, and the Old Shale stitch is no exception. When you knit, the waves may look squished or uneven. After soaking and gently pinning the fabric into shape, the yarn relaxes, allowing every eyelet to open fully. The waves become smoother, the edges straighten, and the lace looks more airy. Even projects that seem ordinary before blocking often look professionally finished afterward.

Final Thoughts:

The Old Shale knit stitch is a very popular lace knitting pattern. Its graceful waves, relaxing rhythm, and timeless appearance make it suitable for knitters of every experience level. This classic Feather and Fan knit stitch is perfect for creating a cozy baby blanket, an elegant scarf, or a lightweight summer garment. It adds beauty without unnecessary complexity.

So don’t worry if it doesn’t look perfect the first or second time. We all have been there, and you will get it right! If you can, try to take those needles out and practice every day. I promise you’ll become so good at it that you’ll be amazed! You can absolutely do it, and I’m here to help you be the best you can be!

Abbreviations:

K= knit;

P= purl;

st= stitch;

RS= right side;

WS= wrong side.

yo= yarn over;

ssk= slip, slip, knit;

k2tog= knit 2 together;

And if you’d like to support my work as a crochet and knitting designer and help me provide more free patterns and designs, you’re more than welcome to buy me a cup of coffee.

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Materials I’ve used: Paintbox Yarns Cotton 4 ply  Antique Pink and 3.5 mm needles.

cotton yarn

 

This is such high-quality cotton yarn! This yarn is buttery soft, 4-ply, and durable, making it perfect for all your cotton knitting and crochet projects.

The color chart is full of beautiful colours. Take your pick and get started! You’re going to love this yarn, and you can buy it right HERE!

 

 

 

 

The written instruction for the Old Shale stitch:

Cast on multiple of 17 sts plus 1.

 

1.Row 1(RS): sl.st, knit all stitches;
2. Row 2: purl all stitches;
3. Row 3: sl.st, k2tog 3 times, (yo, k) 5 times, yo, ssk 3 times;
4. Row 4: purl all stitches;
5. Row 5: sl.st, knit all stitches;
6. Row 6: purl all stitches;
7. Row 7: sl.st, k2tog 3 times, (yo, k) 5 times, yo, ssk 3 times;
8. Row 8: purl all stitches;
9. Row 9: sl.st, knit all stitches;
10. Row 10: sl.st, knit all stitches;
11. Row 11: sl.st, knit all stitches;
12. Row 12: sl.st, knit all stitches;

Repeat the pattern from row 1.

The chart

old shale stitch

I’m so excited to share with you my other free knitting lace stitches for beginners:

  1. Vine Lace Zig-Zag stitch;
  2. Fern lace stitch;
  3. Horseshoe lace stitch;
  4. Leaf lace knit stitch;
  5. Dainty Chevron stitch; 
  6. Twin Leaf lace stitch.

Frequently Asked Questions About the

Is the Old Shale stitch easy for beginners?

Yes, it uses basic knitting techniques and follows an easy four-row repeat, making it one of the best beginner lace patterns.

Is Old Shale the same as Feather and Fan?

Today, people often use these terms interchangeably, but in the past, they referred to slightly different stitch constructions.

Does the stitch curl up?

No, the pattern of knitting and purling in an alternating row helps the fabric stay relatively flat compared to stockinette stitch.

What weight yarn is best?

The pattern works well with fingering, DK, worsted, and bulky yarn. The final look depends on the thickness of the yarn.

Should I block every project?

Absolutely. Blocking helps improve the definition of the stitches and allows the lace to open properly.

I hope you enjoyed the Old Shale lace stitch and I can’t wait to see your projects made with the Old Shale lace stitch. Also, feel free to tag me when you share your project on Instagram or Facebook, or you can use the hashtag #turquoisewithvanilla. 

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© Turquoise with Vanilla, 2026. All rights reserved. The pattern and photographs of the items on this website are the property of Julia Bleau, trading as Turquoise with Vanilla. Please do not sell the pattern or claim it as your own. The pattern is for personal use only and must not be translated or reproduced in another language. Please respect my rights and do not share or publish this pattern anywhere without my permission. You can sell items made using this pattern, but please credit Turquoise with Vanilla or Julia Bleau as the designer.

old shale stitch