Lily of the Valley knitted sweater

I had in my mind this knitted sweater design for months before starting to knit it and when I learned how to knit the plaited rib, I knew these two stitches were the perfect combination. So if you are looking for how to knit a sweater for women, the Lily of the Valley knitted sweater is the perfect project to make for you or your loved one.

The sweater has minimum shaping but if you are looking at knitting sweaters for beginners, first you should learn how to knit the plaited rib and how to crochet a half double bobble.

What I love about this knitted sweater pattern is that it looks great with short sleeves too and, I think it will be a great knit sweater dress. If you would like the Lily of the Valley knitted sweater as a knit sweater turtleneck you just need to knit more rows for the collar.

Follow my Instagram page to see how I’m wearing my Lily of the Valley knitted sweater.

For my Lily of the Valley knitted sweater, I’ve used 550 g of Giza cotton (11 x 50 g)  (50g= 125m/ 1.76oz= 136 yards) a 4 mm needle for the ribbing, and a 4.5 mm needle for the body, and a 3.5 mm hook for the half double crochet bobbles.

This is a very high-quality cotton yarn. Mercerizing makes cotton yarn glossy and shiny, it keeps its shape and doesn’t shrink in the wash. The yarn becomes extremely durable and more resistant to mold. The wonderful depth of color is also characteristic of mercerized cotton. Since the fibers can absorb more color, the result is a much more intense and lasting color.

The color chart includes plenty of gorgeous colors, you just have to decide what color you like and get started. You can buy this yarn HERE.

 

Abbreviations: 

RS= right side;

WS= wrong side;

sl= slip;

k= knit;

p= purl;

yo= yarn over;

k2 tog= knit 2 together as one, the dec leans right.

ssk= slip, slip, knit and means that you slip 1 st, slip the next, then put the left needle back into the slipped sts and knit them together.
This will create a decrease in leaning to the left.

sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 sts together, pass the slipped stitch over. This is a decrease from 3 sts to 1.

hdc= half double crochet.

 

If you like to support my work as a designer and support me to provide more free patterns and designs, buy me a cup of coffee:

 

The final dimension of the Lily of the Valley knitted sweater: 50 cm/19.7 inches width (100 cm/39.4 inches circumference) and 56 cm/22 inches long.

Gauge after washing and ironing/blocking it:  22 stitches and  32 rows to 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 inches).

The instructions for the Lily of the Valley knitted sweater:

If you don’t know how to crochet, first let’s learn how to make the half double crochet bobble:

1. With a crochet hook, loosely pull up a loop from the next stitch;
2. *Yarn over and pull up another loop from the same stitch*, repeat *-* 3 times. You should have 7 loops on the hook;
3. Yarn over, pull through all 7 loops, and chain 1;
4. Bring the hook to the front and lift up the left leg of the stitch in the row below;
5. Yarn over and pull through 2 remaining loops. Move the completed bobble to the right needle.

The written pattern for the Lily of the Valley knitted sweater:

The ribbing:

For my Lily of the Valley knitted sweater I’ve used the plaited rib, I love the woven look, it gives the sweater a special look. If it’s the first time knitting the plaited rib please watch the video tutorial before starting to knit it. Knit the ribbing the same for the back and the front panel, for the sleeves, and for the collar too.

Cast on a multiple of 5 stitches plus 2, for my sweater, I’ve started with 112 stitches.

Row 1 (RS): p2, *k1, LT, p2*; repeat *-* until the end of the row;

Row 2 (WS): k2, *p1, RT, k2*; repeat *-* until the end of the row.

LT= Skip 1st stitch on the left needle, knit 2nd stitch through the back loop and leave on the needle, knit the skipped stitch, then drop both original stitches from the left needle.

RT= skip 1st stitch on left needle, purl 2nd stitch and leave on needle, purl skipped stitch, then drop both original stitches from the left needle.

Row 20: k2 tog, *p1, RT, k2*, repeat *-* until the end of the row, but the last 2 stitches k2 tog.

At the end of row 20, you should have 110 stitches (multiple of 22 stitches) needed to start the body of the sweater.

The chart for the plaited rib:

 

 

The video tutorial for the Plaited rib:

 

The back panel:

The chart for the stitch:

You should have 110 stitches on the needles (multiple of 22 stitches).

The writing pattern:

1. Row 1: *k2 tog, k, yo, k, yo, k5; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k5, yo, k, yo, k, ssk, p*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row.

2. Row 2: knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches;

3. Row 3: *k2 tog, k2, yo, k, yo, k4; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k4, yo, k, yo, k2, ssk, p*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row.

4. Row 4: knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches;

5. Row 5: *k2 tog,hdc bobble, k2, yo, k, yo, k3; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k3, yo, k, yo, k2, hdc bobble, ssk, p*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row.

6. Row 6: knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches;

7. Row 7: *k2 tog, k, hdc bobble, k2, yo, k, yo, k2; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k2, yo, k, yo, k2, hdc bobble, k, ssk, p*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row.

8. Row 8: knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches;

9. Row 9: *k2 tog, k2, hdc bobble, k2, yo, k, yo, k; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k, yo, k, yo, k2, hdc bobble, k2, ssk, p*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row.

10. Row 10: knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches;

11. Row 11: *k2 tog, k3, hdc bobble, k2, yo, k, yo; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; yo, k, yo, k2, hdc bobble, k3, ssk, p*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row.

12. Row 12: knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches;

Repeat the pattern from row 1 for 11 times.

133. Row 133: repeat row 1;

134. Row 134: repeat row 2;

135. Row 135: repeat row 3;

136. Row 136: repeat row 4;

The neckline and shoulders:

137. Row 137: *k2 tog,hdc bobble, k2, yo, k, yo, k3; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k3, yo, k, yo, k2, hdc bobble, ssk, p*. Repeat *-* one more time. Cast off 22 stitches and repeat *-* until the end of the row.

Starting with the next row we will knit every shoulder at a time.

First shoulder:

138. Row 138: knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches;

139. Row 139: cast off 4 stitches, k6; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k2, yo, k, yo, k2, hdc bobble, k, ssk, p. K2 tog, k, hdc bobble, k2, yo, k, yo, k2; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k2, yo, k, yo, k2, hdc bobble, k, ssk, p. At the end of the row you should have 40 stitches.

140. Row 140: knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches;

141. Row 142: cast off 3 stitches, k3; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k, yo, k, yo, k2, hdc bobble, k2, ssk, p. K2 tog, k2, hdc bobble, k2, yo, k, yo, k; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k, yo, k, yo, k2, hdc bobble, k2, ssk, p. At the end of the row you should have 37 stitches.

142. Row 142: knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches;

143. Row 143: cast off 3 stitches; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; yo, k, yo, k2, hdc bobble, k3, ssk, p. K2 tog, k3, hdc bobble, k2, yo, k, yo; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; yo, k, yo, k2, hdc bobble, k3, ssk, p. At the end of the row you should have 34 stitches.

144. Row 144: knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches;

145. Row 145: knit all stitches;

146. Row 146: purl all stitches.

Cast off.

The second shoulder:

138. Row 138: cast off 4 stitches; purl the purl stitches, knit the knit stitches. At the end of the row, you should have 40 stitches.

139. Row 139: k2 tog, k, hdc bobble, k2, yo, k, yo, k2; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k2, yo, k, yo, k2, hdc bobble, k, ssk, p. K2 tog, k, hdc bobble, k2, yo, k, yo, k2; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k7.

140. Row 140: cast off 3 stitches; purl the purl stitches, knit the knit stitches. At the end of the row, you should have 37 stitches.

141. Row 141: k2 tog, k2, hdc bobble, k2, yo, k, yo, k; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k, yo, k, yo, k2, hdc bobble, k2, ssk, p. K2 tog, k2, hdc bobble, k2, yo, k, yo, k; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k4.

142. Row 142: cast off 3 stitches; purl the purl stitches, knit the knit stitches. At the end of the row, you should have 34 stitches.

143. Row 143: k2 tog, k3, hdc bobble, k2, yo, k, yo; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; yo, k, yo, k2, hdc bobble, k3, ssk, p. K2 tog, k3, hdc bobble, k2, yo, k, yo, ssk, k.

144. Row 144: purl the purl stitches, knit the knit stitches.

145. Row 145: knit all stitches;

146. Row 146: purl all stitches.

Cast off.

Click on the chart for a better resolution.

 

The front panel:

Knit the ribbing the same as you did for the back panel.

Knit the front panel exactly like the back panel for 132 rows (repeat the rows 1-12 for 11 times).

133. Row 133: *k2 tog, k, yo, k, yo, k5; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k5, yo, k, yo, k, ssk, p*. Repeat *-* one more time. Cast off 22 stitches and repeat *-* until the end of the row.

Starting with the next row we will knit every shoulder at a time.

First shoulder:

134. Row 134: knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches;

135. Row 135: cast off 4 stitches; k6, sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k4, yo, k, yo, k2, ssk, p. K2 tog, k2, yo, k, yo, k4; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k4, yo, k, yo, k2, ssk, p. At the end of the row, you should have 40 stitches.

136. Row 136: knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches;

137. Row 137: cast off 3 stitches; k3; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k3, yo, k, yo, k2, hdc bobble, ssk, p. K2 tog,hdc bobble, k2, yo, k, yo, k3; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k3, yo, k, yo, k2, hdc bobble, ssk, p. At the end of the row, you should have 37 stitches.

138. Row 138: knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches;

139. Row 139: cast off 3 stitches; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k2, yo, k, yo, k2, hdc bobble, k, ssk, p. K2 tog, k, hdc bobble, k2, yo, k, yo, k2; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k2, yo, k, yo, k2, hdc bobble, k, ssk, p. At the end of the row, you should have 34 stitches.

140. Row 140: knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches;

141. Row 141: sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k, yo, k, yo, k2, hdc bobble, k2, ssk, p. K2 tog, k2, hdc bobble, k2, yo, k, yo, k; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k, yo, k, yo, k2, hdc bobble, k2, ssk, p.

142. Row 142: knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches;

143. Row 143: sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; yo, k, yo, k2, hdc bobble, k3, ssk, p. K2 tog, k3, hdc bobble, k2, yo, k, yo; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; yo, k, yo, k2, hdc bobble, k3, ssk, p.

144. Row 144: knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches;

145. Row 145: knit all stitches;

146. Row 146: purl all stitches.

Cast off.

The second shoulder:

134. Row 134: cast off 4 stitches; purl the purl stitches, knit the knit stitches. At the end of the row, you should have 40 stitches.

135. Row 135: k2 tog, k2, yo, k, yo, k4; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k4, yo, k, yo, k2, ssk, p. K2 tog, k2, yo, k, yo, k4; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k7.

136. Row 136: cast off 3 stitches; purl the purl stitches, knit the knit stitches. At the end of the row, you should have 37 stitches.

137. Row 137:  k2 tog,hdc bobble, k2, yo, k, yo, k3; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k3, yo, k, yo, k2, hdc bobble, ssk, p. K2 tog,hdc bobble, k2, yo, k, yo, k3; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k4.

138. Row 138: cast off 3 stitches; purl the purl stitches, knit the knit stitches. At the end of the row, you should have 34 stitches.

139. Row 139: k2 tog, k, hdc bobble, k2, yo, k, yo, k2; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k2, yo, k, yo, k2, hdc bobble, k, ssk, p. K2 tog, k, hdc bobble, k2, yo, k, yo, k2; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k.

140. Row 140: purl the purl stitches, knit the knit stitches.

141. Row 141: k2 tog, k2, hdc bobble, k2, yo, k, yo, k; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k, yo, k, yo, k2, hdc bobble, k2, ssk, p. K2 tog, k2, hdc bobble, k2, yo, k, yo, k; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k.

142. Row 142: purl the purl stitches, knit the knit stitches.

143. Row 143: k2 tog, k3, hdc bobble, k2, yo, k, yo; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; yo, k, yo, k2, hdc bobble, k3, ssk, p. K2 tog, k3, hdc bobble, k2, yo, k, yo; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k.

144. Row 144: purl the purl stitches, knit the knit stitches,

145. Row 145: knit all stitches;

146. Row 146: purl all stitches.

Cast off.

Optional: Crochet single crochet stitches all around the front panel and then around the back panel, and for the sleeves too. Crochet the stitches on the right side (in corners crochet 2 sc in one stitch). I like to crochet this round of single crochet because the edges look better. In addition, it’s easier to join together the two panels. Plus the neckline looks better too, and it will be easier to pick up the stitches for the collar. But you can skip this step if you like.

Sew together the front and back panels leaving enough space for the sleeves. Then sew together the shoulders leaving the space for the head. For my Lily of the Valley sweater, I’ve used a cross-stitch to join together the panels and the sleeves. But you can sew them together using the stitch you know how to sew.

The sleeves:

Cast on a multiple of 5 stitches plus 2, for my sleeves I have 67 stitches.

Row 1 (RS): p2, *k1, LT, p2*; repeat *-* until the end of the row;

Row 2 (WS): k2, *p1, RT, k2*; repeat *-* until the end of the row.

LR= skip 1st stitch on left needle, knit 2nd stitch through the back loop and leave on needle, knit skipped stitch, then drop both original stitches from left needle.

RT= skip 1st stitch on left needle, purl 2nd stitch and leave on needle, purl skipped stitch, then drop both original stitches from the left needle.

Row 20: k2 tog, *p1, RT, k2*, repeat *-* until the end of the row.

At the end of row 20, you should have 66 stitches (multiple of 22 stitches) needed to start the sleeve of the sweater.

21. Row 21: *k2 tog, k, yo, k, yo, k5; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k5, yo, k, yo, k, ssk, p*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row.

22. Row 22: knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches;

23. Row 23: *k2 tog, k2, yo, k, yo, k4; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k4, yo, k, yo, k2, ssk, p*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row.

24. Row 24: knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches;

25. Row 25: *k2 tog,hdc bobble, k2, yo, k, yo, k3; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k3, yo, k, yo, k2, hdc bobble, ssk, p*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row.

26. Row 26: knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches;

27. Row 27: *k2 tog, k, hdc bobble, k2, yo, k, yo, k2; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k2, yo, k, yo, k2, hdc bobble, k, ssk, p*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row.

28. Row 28: knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches;

29. Row 29: *k2 tog, k2, hdc bobble, k2, yo, k, yo, k; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; k, yo, k, yo, k2, hdc bobble, k2, ssk, p*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row.

30. Row 30: knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches;

31. Row 31: *k2 tog, k3, hdc bobble, k2, yo, k, yo; sl 1 st knitwise, k2 tog, psso; yo, k, yo, k2, hdc bobble, k3, ssk, p*. Repeat *-* until the end of the row.

32. Row 32: knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches;

Repeat the pattern from rows 21 to 32 until you reach the desired length for the sleeve. For my sleeves, I’ve repeated the pattern 10 times.

And then I knitted two more rows in stockinette stitch.

Cast off and I’ve made one round of single crochet stitch around the sleeves. Sew the sleeves on the body of the sweater.

The neckband for the Lily of the Valley knitted sweater:

For the neckband, I’ve used the same stitch as the ribbing. Pick up the stitches directly from the neckline of the sweater making sure you have multiple of 5 stitches plus 2. Start with the first row on the right side and knit the ribbing for 10 rows. Cast off, sew together the edges, and weave in the ends.

Here are some great patterns to knit or crochet this winter:

1. Herringbone Infinity scarf;
2. Cozy Winter Crochet Hat;
3. Cozy Days crochet Vest;
4. Trinity Scarf;
5. Sunny days scarf;
6. Twist Headband;
7. Crochet Alpine hat;
8. Landscape cables scarf;
9. Knitted unisex scarf;
10. Knitted cabled lapghan.

I hope you enjoyed the Lily of the Valley knitted sweater. Also, I can’t wait to see your photos with the Lily of the Valley knitted sweater. Also, feel free to tag me when you share your project on Instagram or Facebook, or you can use the hashtag #turquoisewithvanilla. 

Follow my Facebook and Instagram pages to see my current projects.

Also please Subscribe to my YouTube channel for my video tutorials:  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCUpzoP-RDaJV1_2kvJMh5QQ/videos

 

*Some links may be affiliate links, allowing me to make a small commission on any products purchased through my recommendation. Please note that this does not influence my opinion or recommendations in any way.